Mountaineering

I

Introduction

Mountaineering, sport of climbing mountains, originally combining purposes of exploration and research but increasingly pursued purely for recreation. Mountain climbing can be divided into three types: scrambles, or walkups, requiring no special equipment; rock-climbing; and ice climbing.

II

Rock-Climbing

Rock-climbing involves knowledge of rope handling. Climbers use a rope to belay, or secure, one another; one climbs while another holds the rope to protect against any fall or slip. A technique called rappelling, or abseiling, is used in descending very steep terrain. The rope is attached in such a way that it can be pulled down after the last climber has used it; descending along the rope, the climbers use the friction thus generated (often absorbed by a mechanical device attached to their bodies) to control their rate of descent. Techniques now used for the steepest rock- climbs include the use of chocks, devices that are wedged into crevices in the rock. The rope is attached to these by means of snap rings called carabiners. Vertical and overhanging rock faces may also require use of short ladder-like loops of nylon webbing, attached to the rock by the lead climbers. Following climbers can then use two mechanical ascenders that alternately grip and release the rope as the climber goes up, while standing in attached stirrups.

Rock-climbing originated as a means of practising techniques for ascending high mountains; it has evolved into a highly developed sport in itself. Major centres of activity include the Peak District, the Cairngorms, and Snowdonia in Great Britain, the Dolomites in northern Italy, the Pyrenees, and the Alps. American areas include the Yosemite Valley, California, and the limestone cliffs of the Shawangunks in New York State.

III

Ice Climbing

Routes moderately covered with snow can be safely climbed using an ice axe to cut steps, probe crevasses, give balance, and belay the rope. Steeper snow- and ice-covered routes require crampons, devices with 12 or more sharp steel points that are strapped on each boot. Glacier routes require the use of slings and additional equipment so that a climber who falls into a crevasse may quickly climb or be hauled out.

IV

Modern Climbing

Although the sport does have risks, and accidents may be of catastrophic proportions, proper training and advanced techniques now ensure relative safety. Climbers often begin by taking lessons from one of the many local clubs in all parts of the world. Others learn from experienced friends or professional guides. Because so many of the early climbing enthusiasts were scientists or writers, or both, the field is unusually rich in descriptive literature. Current trends in climbing favour ascents made by small parties, or even solo climbers, moving very quickly with a minimum of lightweight equipment over direct routes. Summits such as Everest, previously reached only under ideal conditions, are now being successully gained during autumn and winter months, and without the use of oxygen. Women are playing an increasingly important part in mountaineering, participating in national expeditions and organizing some of their own.