III.

Specialized Uniforms

As the military uniform developed, despite the rigours of war and the necessity of budget-cutting, each nation incorporated distinctive elements into its uniforms. The kilts of Scottish regiments, the feather plumes of Italian bersaglieri (light infantry), and the square-topped chapska, or caps, of Polish soldiers are all nationalistic features, some having hundreds of years of tradition. Soldiers’ duties, however, also determined the style of their uniforms. For example, in the mid-19th century, mounted men wore close-fitting helmets or busbies, short jackets, tight breeches, and riding boots, and carried their personal equipment on the horse, whereas foot soldiers wore taller bearskins or shakos, coatees with tails, trousers, and ankle boots, and carried their equipment and ammunition fastened around their bodies by a system of leather slings or straps.

Armies have always had a number of specialized or elite corps. Among the earliest were the grenadiers. Originally, they were chosen for their size and strength and were assigned the task of assaulting fortifications with hand-grenades. Because the typical 18th-century cocked hat got in their way when they slung their muskets to light and throw the grenades, grenadiers began wearing brimless stocking caps. By the time of the Napoleonic Wars this cap had evolved into a massive bearskin, elaborately trimmed. This was the cap favoured by Napoleon’s Imperial Guard Grenadiers. When a British Foot Guard regiment defeated the Grenadiers at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, the British regiment was allowed to wear the bearskin cap in honour of their victory. Today the Brigade of Guards still wears the bearskin cap with the traditional red coat.

Since World War I, the development of the military uniform has been influenced less by tradition and more by the practical demands of the battlefield and the necessity of protection from the environment. Hence, specialized garments for trench warfare and for jungle, desert, and arctic conditions have been developed. Clothing, in general, must be functional and of lightweight, durable materials that will enable soldiers to perform their duties without restricting their movements. Special uniforms have been created for specific needs, such as flame-retardant uniforms for the crews of tanks and helicopters, and chemical-warfare suits. Camouflage suits are designed for use against certain backgrounds. These are based on a very different design criterion compared with previous centuries, when the purpose of soldiers’ uniforms was to make them highly visible.

Today, although such distinctions tend to be officially discouraged, some units still rely on unique features of insignia and dress to help separate them from members of other outfits. The red beret worn by many of the world’s airborne forces is only one example of such a distinctive article of dress.

Although women have for centuries served with armies in various capacities, only occasionally were they allowed to wear military uniforms; exceptions were the vivandières and cantinières (female sutlers) of the French armies. This practice changed in World War I, when female non-combatants were issued with military uniforms that included skirts. The uniforms of female recruits today resemble those of their male counterparts, and combat dress is designed for both males and females.